Altering the Bettine Dress

Tilly and the Buttons patterns are really some of the easiest I have ever followed, so I was quite excited to try this one out. I measured myself up and found I fell into the second smallest size. However I should have researched the pattern before cutting it up because when I made it up I discovered I could barely get it over my derriere.

(Also worth noting if you have an ample chest, you might have similar issues, thankfully I don't). As I was making the version with pockets, it made it a little more of a faff to alter, but actually as you will see, it was pretty easy in the end).

(This is the first one I made, with a vintage floral fabric and all the optional extras, tabs, pockets)

So if you had the same problem as me, this is how I altered it!

So I felt that it fit perfectly on the upper half, and around the waist, and though it did fit on the bottom half, it was kind of hard to sit down.

As you can see, it is a little too huggy.

(Here are the sleeve details)

So here are some tips for widening the skirt:

You will need some large pieces of paper or smaller ones taped together. Then take the back piece of the skirt pattern as your base, and draw a line skimming off the widest point down. You can see MY pattern piece behind the original to see the difference. Make sure you copy all the markings across. 

Copy that back piece. Then take the front skirt piece from the Bettine pattern and copy that pocket curve in and the markings from THAT piece.

Now for pockets.You will see here that I have stacked the original pocket bag, mine and the back skirt piece. There is a very slight difference between the original pocket piece and the skirt- you need to add that or it won't get stitched into the seam. 

See, a very small extra bit.

Then do a similar thing for the pocket facing.

You should now have four altered  pieces. Make sure you copy all the markings across as you go.

 At the end, stack them all up, they should all line up well. Alter if needed.

As you haven't changed the waist of the dress, it will all sew up just as easily as the first pattern. To test the fit of the new skirt section, I made this practice from a cheap peacock cotton:

It actually fits beautifully and I wear it often.

Modelling in Provins, France. I will soon be making a whole new Bettine and will share the outcome when its done. Though now I can move and sit down easily, I know it will work fine.

The Acquisition and Alteration of an Antique Blouse

I can't help but feel I should have found a garment name starting with an "A" to finish that heading  ^-^ Ah well!

I recently found this beautiful little top on Etsy but knew from the measurements that when it arrived, the bottom band would be too tight to fit comfortably. But as you know, this never stops me from buying pretty clothes....

It is very old, the seller said 1910s, and as such had a few marks on it.

I didn't make any effort to remove the marks, I figured they would fade with time, plus it seems part of its history to me.

 The top is basically one piece that goes over the head, with buttons under the arm to hold it together and then on the band. Though it fits on the bust and everywhere else, the band is just too tight so I decided to alter it a bit.

I raided my antique lace stash and cut off two pieces that would fit from the underarm button to the band, hemmed them and stitched them to one side of the top.

I then added a popper to the side that wasn't fixed. So that I could still get it on and off easily.

So it looked like this. Under the button, on the inside is the popper fastening. It stays closed and the lace peaks out. Kinda perfect I think. 

Well almost.

I ended up adding some touches of red. The button is actually on the back. I am quite tempted to embroider some daisies on the front band in pale blue. But it hasn't happened yet....

For now it is finished.

Back

Front

Side detail.

I am looking forward to hot summer days and picnics in the park for this one.

Making a Thrift Store Dress BIGGER

So the other day when I was running an errand in a district of Paris I do not know that well, I spied a rather unusual (for Paris) thrift shop. Yes there are vintage shops all over Paris, but they are not like England's second hand shops where it is possible to get true bargains. And this wasn't really a shop. It was more like a garage with the front open and its wares spilling out onto the street. This dress was hung at the front and I immediately fell in love. 

It may not be something unique or amazing but I really liked the shape and I am a sucker for dark blue dresses. I thought it looked a bit small but I figured it was elasticated so gave it a try. I hid behind some boxes and did my best to get it on. No way in hell. TOO small and there was no hidden zip. I was sad, "C'est trop petite pour moi". I handed it back and walked off.

But I KNEW it would look good on me and it looked like maybe it COULD fit if maybe I could do SOMETHING to it. So I went back and offered her four euros for it. I was determined to make it fit.

With the aid of some Joni Mitchell I cracked on.

What I Did:

As the main problem was getting it on over my head and it being too tight across my chest when I eventually did get it on at home, I decided I would simply remove the top half of the back.

So I marked with some pins where I thought I would cut down to. I thought about where my chest was and made sure it was below that (for maximum give).

I then cut this panel away, leaving 1cm all round of the elasticated panel to use to make new seams. 

I put the closest book to hand between the front and back so you can better see the cut. As you can see the back opens up MUCH more.

I then pinned it all around which was most fiddly on the elasticated section.

Next I stitched all around using a zig-zag stitch. I used zig-zag because I only folded the fabric over once and wanted to make sure it would not fray at all and thought this would be the most secure way of doing it.

I tried it on and could now get it over my shoulders and chest easily. But I wasn't done...

Last week on my way home I found this rather ugly lampshade on the street, I had an idea for the wire frame so took it home. But also noticed it has some rather lovely lace and ribbon attached. Looking at the dress I decided that the ribbon would make a great tie for the top. 

So I took the ribbon, cut it in half and sewed half to each side about an inch from the top. 

And it was done!

I am pretty happy with the result. I am really too broke right now to buy new clothes so this was perfect. The whole project cost 4E, that is it. I borrowed the sewing machine, and salvaged everything else. I am tempted to sew three old mother of pearl buttons I have in a line on the front to further personalize it.  But I am enjoying flouncing around in it the way it is (I have already rocked it about twice for a dinner party and a walk in the woods). Proof that with some imagination the perfect dress can be really REALLY cheap.

I could have taken the whole back out and put eyelets in and laced it up corset style... I very nearly did. But that meant buying eyelets...! This was better.

Sleeping comfortably in my new dress in some French woodlands (hiding from the Paris smog).